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BMW Oil Separator Service Bulletin

More information about the Oil Separator Service Bulletin from BMW. This should be a recall item:

http://www.bmwservicect.com/oil_separator.html

Oil Separator DIY links:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=417819

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=323335&highlight=lbert+oil+separator

My video of the problem:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bv8x49g8STc

Closest forum posting that matches my symptoms:
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=774852

Okay, trying to be logical about this. The consensus of most forums usually covers all of the following culprits:

1) ICV Valve - Idle Control Valve - DIYs available on how to remove and clean - check
2) DISA - Adjuster unit that plugs into the Intake Manifold - Flap inside can go bad, makes a rattling sound if broken, vacuum may be broken if the rubber seals where DISA connects to intake manifold are worn (sealant DIY on youtube). No Rattle in mine, did the sealant DIY with RTV - check
3)Oil Separator and Vacuum hoses connected to it - typical for breakage in any of the 3 to 4 hoses connected to the Separator can result in irregular idle - inspected mine and the hoses appear to be fine (including those under the manifold)
4) MAF Sensor - bad or going bad, DIY is to clean with MAF Cleaner (CRC) - trying this now. If it is bad it must be replaced.
5) Spark Plugs - all brand new after recent valve cover job
6) Air Intake Boot (2 - upper and lower) - cracked or torn anywhere will cause idle issues - no cracks or tears in mine - check
7) Bad or dying Fuel Pump - must be replaced DIYs avail on e46fanatics.com
8 ) Fuel Filter bad - just replaced within the last two years - not likely to be my issue
9) Injectors Dirty or Bd - Clean or replace - so far only used bottled injector cleaner

Troubleshooting tips to locate intake cracks and vacuum leaks:

Turn car on and spray Brake Cleaner around boot, if idle picks up significantly then there is most likely you just sprayed the area where the crack or vacuum leak exists.

http://www.hughston.com/hha/a_13_4_6.htm

P0313  Misfire Detected Low Fuel Level

P0300  Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected

P0171  Fuel Trim, Bank1 System too Lean

P0174  Fuel Trim, Bank2 System too Lean

P1349  Ignition Coil Power Output Stage 2 Open Circuit

P1344  Ignition Coil Power Output Stage 2 Short to B+

P1346 Misfire During Start Cylinder 3

P1351 Misfire Cylinder 5 With Fuel Cut-off

P1352 Misfire During Start Cylinder 6

P1083 Fuel Control Mixture Lean (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

P1085 Fuel Control Mixture Lean (Bank 2 Sensor 1)

Pics of the other Monitors 

Well I can attest that the readiness monitor drive cycle steps outlined here worked. I marginally followed them y. I didn't get quite to 15 minutes continuously at 60 mph (about 10 minutes) but I did drive from I-287 exit 4 to exit 12 and then turned around. I was convinced that the cycle was broken, but I took the chance.

I passed inspections, they do not give you the pass printout anymore so I waited until I returned to scan my monitors with my OBD II tool to see if in fact they were all READY. I was pleasantly surprised to see that at least 4 monitors that I've never seen READY now in fact were. Pics below:

Passed NJ State Inspection today with 2 year sticker